All Roads Lead To… John Dory’s

If you’ve ambled through Maerua Mall lately, you may have been somewhat mesmerised by conveyer belt sushi making its slow, suggestive way above ducked heads digging into prawn avalanches, tempura chicken schnitzel and Cajun hake stacks with the requisite gusto.

New on the restaurant scene and chock a block for its first few days of existence, John Dory’s is open and often packed to the rafters. A South African franchise serving fish, grill and sushi, John Dory’s is a boon to Windhoek’s seafood lovers who saw Ocean Basket relocate to Grove Mall or watched in horror as Fishmonger’s closed its doors.

On a late Monday afternoon, the restaurant has emptied of its bustling lunch crowd and we settle in between a couple of reserved signs. Filling up at a trickle but still manageable enough to send a waitress rushing to our table, John Dory’s service is swift and, in such early days as these, even includes the manager popping by to inquire as to the state of our steak.

Yes, steak.

Though the restaurant is famous for its fish, the reality is the place can make a mean piece of meat.

For my friend Dalene, the Portuguese steak on a bed of creamy peri-peri, sliced chorizo sausage and red onions topped with an egg and served with onion rings. Perfectly cooked and quickly served, the steak at John Dory’s may be even more enticing than the fish.

Particularly the seared salmon salad which comes thoroughly drenched in mayo defeating all health in the option whilst doing unspeakable things to the main attraction. Easily impressive is the tuna sashimi which arrives in fresh, thick cuts.

As ambient as a place can be smack bang in the middle of the mall, John Dory’s is light, bright and well-kept and even boasts a little deck with sprawling views of cinema, stair case and tile.

Making up what it lacks in atmosphere with great service, good food and generous portions, John Dory’s is fresh and functional in all the ways that matter.

Perhaps a notch above Ocean Basket but not quite as artisanal as local outfits such as Daisho and T’Haiku, John Dory’s is well worth a visit for your cheese and prawn spring rolls, hake thermidor and prawns galore.